German dish with an Italian gnocchi twist
 | Author:
Jon Bennion, Montana Free Press
Jon Bennion, Montana Free Press |
My sinfully secret cool-weather comfort food.
Families often have secrets they hope the world never discovers. When I was growing up, my family had a big one. It was our love of a super indulgent Volga German dish we called “clays.”
It is sinfully decadent in its use of both browned butter and heavy cream to make the sauce, which tops a delicious duo of carbs in the form of boiled potato cubes and flour-and-egg dumplings.
Any time someone new was set to marry into the family, we debated whether to introduce our new in-law-to-be to the dish, worried they might be turned off by the gluttony. But while our “clays” won’t be winning any medals in the health food awards, this simple yet extravagant dish has always received two thumbs up from everyone we’ve eventually shared it with.
About two decades ago we discovered that we’d botched our pronunciation of the dish when we found an old German cookbook containing a strikingly similar dish called “kloese.” It wasn’t until a few years ago that I decided this humble dish could be married with Italian techniques, giving it an almost high-end feel. Gnocchi, the famous potato dumpling from Italy, uses the same ingredients (potato, egg, flour) we featured in our family dish, just reengineered.
I’ve developed a few additional steps to modernize this family classic. After boiling the gnocchi, I pan-fry them to crisp up the exterior, adding texture our original version never had. I also updated the sauce by layering in sage, thyme and rosemary, which impart a subtle herbinesss. The result is a perfect comfort food for the cooler weather that’s coming.
If this updated family favorite isn’t quite up your alley, worry not. The gnocchi recipe alone can be used with different sauces and preparations in a number of Italian dishes. No judgment — as long as you don’t judge my family.
Gnocchi Ingredients
2 pounds Yukon gold potatoes
1 egg
3/4-1 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 tsp kosher salt
1/4 tsp freshly cracked black pepper
2 tbsp salted butter, for sautéing
Sauce Ingredients
6 tbsp salted butter
1/2 cup heavy cream
fresh thyme sprigs, sage leaves or rosemary, in any combination
Preheat your oven to 425 degrees Fahrenheit. Wash the potatoes, prick them with a fork, and bake for about an hour. Remove from the oven and let them cool enough to handle. Slice them down the middle and remove as much of the interior as you can. Use a ricer to break down the potatoe flesh into large chunks (preferred), or use a potato masher to finely mash them. Let the potatoes cool to room temperature.
Make a well in the center of the potato flesh and crack one egg into the well. Dust the potatoes with 3/4 cups of flour, salt and pepper. Mix the ingredients together with a fork. Once most of the ingredients have come together, use your hands to finish incorporating everything. If your gnocchi dough is too sticky, add a bit more flour.
Cut the dough into four equal parts and roll them into 1-inch tubes, using a bit of flour on the outside if it sticks. Once all four parts are rolled out, cut into 1-inch pieces to create the gnocchi. Dust the cut sides with a bit of flour to prevent sticking.
In a small frying pan, slowly brown 6 tbsp of butter on medium heat with the herbs. I use one large sprig of thyme, a small sprig of rosemary and six small sage leaves. You can use only one herb if you like, just increase the quantity.
You’ll want to stir gently with a spatula, allowing the herbs to infuse their flavor and get crisp. When the butter reaches a very light brown color, remove the herbs onto a paper-towel-lined plate. Remove the butter from the heat (don’t let it burn!) when it reaches a nutty brown color. Set it aside while you boil your gnocchi.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Place the gnocchi in the boiling water and allow them to cook until they float, about 1-2 minutes. When they’re done, strain them gently and place them in a large nonstick pan with 2 tablespoons of butter over medium heat. Sauté and turn the gnocchi until they’re golden brown.
While the gnocchi are browning, add the cream to the browned butter and heat gradually on medium-low. Whisk until the two ingredients come together as a sauce. Once the gnocchi are golden brown and plated, spoon the sauce over them and top with some of the crisped herbs and freshly cracked black pepper.
This article was originally published in the Montana Free Press
https://montanafreepress.bluelena.io/lt.php?x=4lZy~GDLJFLP7pJ5yd1FgxVs2K_TvNH2kM1lZHLEJIWf5pF~-Uy.0uRr2nzzjNb0jedAXHIWJnWb5XDq_EDGU.Bv13.Rzk~w
Article Images
Click on Image Thumbnail(s) to view fullsize image
PhotoCredit: Jon Bennion, Montana Free Press
Image 1 Caption: German/Italian Gnocci
